Redefined minimalism

18 May 2021

Minimalism is on the rise. 2021 has, so far, been (ironically) cluttered with neutral tones, earthy shades and simple cuts that are characteristic of the movement, referred to as redefined minimalism. Now a style of clothing, a measure of one’s wardrobe, and a lifestyle: this new wave in fashion is a holistic movement in itself.

The style can be credited to be popularised by both influencers like @JosefineHJ and designers such as Ann Demeulemeester and Calvin Klein – two powerhouses of 90s minimalism. The fashion community was captivated by Porte Jacquemus’s SS21 runway, which took place in the barley fields of the Vexin National Park, just outside of Paris. The designer himself, Simon Porte Jacquemus, described his runway as ‘like a movie of a summer day’ (Vogue). Featuring colour blocking, lofty linens, woven fabrics and neutral tones, the collection is the epitome of redefined minimalism. Vogue described the pieces as littered with ‘architectural silhouettes’, as structure is one key element to his designs and minimal style as a whole.

Jil Sander, the unwavering champion of ‘luxe and less’ made business-wear not only professional but classy and chic – her designs are dominated by the beauty of monochrome and a darker palette. More recently, her work has been appealing to a younger consumer, possibly since she began retailing in Uniqlo. To this day, she is vastly credited for being the original major designer to bring the minimalist style (that later defined the 90s) into the mainstream.

Of course, minimalism is not just a style but a quantifiable measure of one’s wardrobe. The capsule wardrobe was very popular in the 80s but is difficult to maintain in the digital age, as we have a 24/7 shop in our pockets that makes it difficult to be satisfied by a 30–40-piece wardrobe of basics. The term ‘capsule wardrobe’ was originally coined by Susie Faux, and was meant to be the solution to poorly made clothing, over-consumption and a cluttered lifestyle. Investing in a small selection of cross-season basics that can be mixed and matched meant that people were able to own quality clothing without a large budget.

Giving a modern interpretation to the capsule wardrobe, Kelly Stamps, a minimalist YouTuber, reminds us that it is possible to live an uncluttered lifestyle if we keep our wardrobe on rotation. She recommends buying vintage/sustainable investment pieces that will be easy to sell on once you want to move on, keeping your wardrobe interesting but still pared-down: comparative to the ‘does it spark joy attitude’ brought on by Marie-Kondo’s 2011 book.

This wave of redefined minimalism comes at the right time for our planet. Of course, one of the best ways to reduce our environmental impact is to break the cycle of constant consumption and disregard. In part brought on by the pandemic, this trend and now lifestyle gives us just that: possibly paving the way to a more sustainable future of fashion.

Words: Meg Bowles